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Easy, Practical Costume Ideas for Students
(click any picture for a larger view of the sketch)

Circle Skirt

A circle skirt is a very common and widely recognized costume piece.  Circle skirts are fun to dance in, and with all that swirly fabric floating around you,  you can be both glamorous and playful in your dancing.  Circle skirts can be made out of almost any fabric as long as it isn't stiff or heavy.  If you prefer an ethnic or American Tribal Style look, use a lightweight cotton.  For a cabaret look, choose a lightweight fabric such as chiffon, for example.  Use standard 45" wide fabric.

Measure yourself from hipline to ankles, then add eight inches for hems and the waist hole.  Call this measurement "A".  This will make one quarter-circle.  Double this number, and that will determine how much fabric you will need to buy to make each  half-circle.  If you want your skirt to be 2 half-circles in the back and one in the front, you will need 3 half-circles (This makes a very full skirt).  You can have 1 half-circle in back and 1 half-circle in front,  one half-circle in back and a quarter-circle in front, and so on, however you desire. Lay your fabric out and measure "A" (hip to ankle plus 8").  Fold fabric back on top of the first layer.  Each two layers with a fold on one side will make one half-circle.   Continue folding the fabric back and forth until you have the correct number of layers for your skirt.  Pin a measuring tape to the top corner, through all the layers of fabric.  Measure out "A".   With a pencil, mark a half-circle using the measuring tape as a guide.  Leaving the measuring tape still pined, measure and mark a 6" radius for the waist hole. Cut through all the layers of fabric at once.   Sew the half-circles together.  Sew the sides closed, or leave them open if desired.  Turn the top edge of the skirt under and make a casing.   Insert 1" wide non-roll elastic.  Hang the skirt up for a week to let the bias stretch out.  Trim the skirt evenly and make a narrow rolled hem.  You can add decorative trim if you desire.   It takes approx. 4 yards of trim for each half-circle..

Harem Pants

Harem pants are an easy and versatile costume piece.  Wear them with a handkerchief or panel skirt, under a circle skirt or under a baladi dress.  Wear them alone, or dress them up with scarves or coin belts.  Make a matching vest, add a pair of earrings, and you're all set!

You will need a minimum of two yards (or meters) of 45" wide fabric.  For fuller pants, use 2.5 or 3 yards (or meters).   Fold the fabric in half with raw edges together, and cut from selvage to selvage.  Measure  approx. 12" from the top of one selvage down - this will be your crotch seam. This will vary for each person -measure yourself from hips to just below the crotch. Don't forget to add extra inches for the waistband at the top! If you wish to have a more comfortable crotch opening, cut in about 2" at the crotch seam, and then cut straight up to the top.  Now sew each piece from the bottom selvage up to the crotch opening.  You will have two tubes.  Next sew the crotch seams together    Turn the fabric under at the hip line, making a casing for your elastic.  Use a 1" non-roll elastic. Turn  fabric under at leg bottom, making a casing for the ankle elastic.  Thread elastic and sew the opening closed.  Try on your pants.  The fabric should billow around the foot. 

Straight Skirt

You can wear a straight skirt alone, or over a pair of harem pants.  Worn alone, the skirt looks great made out of glittery fabrics, or fabrics with a bit of stretch to them.  Very lightweight fabrics will not work.   

You will need enough fabric to wrap around your hips plus a little extra  for seams.  Stitch the edges together from the top down as far as you like, but no further than the knee.  If you want 2 leg openings,  situate the opening over the front of one hip.  Cut an opening for your other leg the same size as the first leg opening.  Hem the raw edges.  Turn under the waistband to make a casing for elastic. Hem.

If you want to wear the skirt over a pair of harem pants, you'll need to make 2 panels. Measure yourself from your front hipbone around the back to the other front hip bone.  This is the back of your skirt. Add a little extra for seams and a bit of gathering if you want. Cut another piece of fabric for the front, measured from one front hip to the other.  Turn top edge under to make a casing.  Wear with a scarf to hide the elastic that shows.


Handkerchief Skirt

This is a very easy skirt to make.  You can make it out of any fabric.  You can wear it alone, over a pair of harem pants, or over a circle skirt.  You can cut this out of either a square or a rectangle.  The shape of piece you use will determine the length and shape of the handkerchief points.  I am wearing a handkerchief skirt made out of blue glitter dot fabric over a sea foam green circle skirt in the photo on the home page of this website.  Fold your fabric in half, and then in half again (see diagram).  Cut an 8 inch quarter-circle out of the corner, so that when you open up your fabric, you will have a round hole in the center.  This hole should be the same diameter as your hips.  Turn the opening under and create a casing for the elastic.  When you put the skirt on, the four corners will fall into points.  For a fuller look with 8 points, layer 2 squares, one on top of the other.

Baladi Dress

A traditional and versatile costume, the baladi dress is basically a simple gunny-sack style of dress.  The baladi dress can be made out of just about any material.  Use glittery fabric for a cabaret look. Or, you can use lace or a loose weave knit and wear with leggings or harem pants and a crop-top underneath.  Make it out of an ethnic print fabric for a folk look.  Dress it up by sewing on paillets and sequins.  Cut the neckline low so it tucks underneath the bust, and wear with a decorated costume bra.  Wear it with a hip scarf, coin belt, or make a hip girdle.  Make a sheath, or add long draping sleeves.  It's up to you!

Easy T-Shirt Top

Do you have a shirt that matches the material in your skirt or harem pants?  Perhaps a pretty summer t-shirt that you can convert into a dance top will look nice!  Gather the front of the shirt up, either by running a basting stitch or by simply gathering it up into a pretty hair barrette.  Or, cut the bottom to create a crop-top (be sure to mark before you cut, and then raise your arms over your head to be sure you aren't cutting it too short!). Sew on paillets, sequins, coins, or beads to the bottom edge, and around the neck and sleeves.  If you want, you can attach  jewelry (necklace chain for example) or beads to drape over the midriff area. Viola!  A top suitable for any student performance.  Sew matching beads (Christmas decorations work great) onto the waistband of your skirt or pants, and you've got a matching outfit!

Body Suits   look just fine!  If you want, you can dress them up with costume jewelry or beading sewn onto the front.

Bedlah: Costume Bra and Belt

I personally don't wear bedlah very often.  Since there are a lot of internet sites with excellent advice on making a costume bra and belt set, I'll leave it to them and just briefly touch on it here. 

Costume Bra:  You'll need to purchase a sturdy bra that fits you well (or is even a bit large to absorb the room you'll take up with stitching) and that has adequate coverage.  No demi-bras, please!  Be tasteful at all costs! You'll need to cut off the straps and replace them with grosgrain ribbon, or something similar that has no stretch, give, or bounce.  This is very important!  It may seem silly, but as soon as you start dancing and your bra starts to move independently and the straps start slipping, you'll wish you had done it!  Cover the cups with fabric of your choice.  You can be as artistic as you want.  Add a jewelry stomach drape or put fringe on if you like. Cover the straps, sides and back with matching sequined trim.  Never dance in a bra that just has the cups covered, because that's exactly what it will look like:  a bra with decorated cups.  In class I'll tell you to always finish your movement - the same applies here:  always finish your costume!

Belt:  As you know, wearing something on the hips is essential for adding emphasis to the hip movements.  You can wear a coin belt or hip scarf, or you can make your own girdle.  You will need to make a pattern out of newspaper.  Experiment to find the shape that suits you best. You'll need to cut the girdle fairly narrow over the top of the leg so that it won't ride up when you dance.  Remember also that your body is curved, not straight, so your girdle must curve also to avoid gaps at the top.  When you have the paper pattern perfected, you can transfer it onto your fabric.  Use a sturdy non-stretch fabric such as heavy felt, melton cloth, or table padding.  Heavy upholstery fabrics also work well.  Cut it out, and then cover the girdle with a pretty fabric.  Your girdle should match your bra - so if you've covered your bra with silver glitter dot fabric, for example, cover your belt with the same.  You can now leave it "as is", or you can add coin or bead drapes, fringe, tassels, whatever you desire!  Be creative!  To fasten the girdle, I recommend using 2 rows of heavy duty men's trouser hooks. 


Now that we've talked about costume ideas, we have to talk about:

Underwear

My grandma always told me to wear my good underpants if I was going out, just in case I got in an accident.  Now, I'm not your grandma, so as long as you're modest, I don't ordinarily care what kind of underwear you wear with your practice outfit in class.  Performing in your costume is a whole other ball of wax, though, whether it be for family & friends, the general public, or for your classmates at a studio party, because grandma was right. Sometimes your skirt may get the best of you, and you'll end up exposing more leg than you planned on.  This happens to more dancers than you know.  It happened to me!  I had no idea that my gloriously spinning skirt was showing off my flowered underpants to over one hundred audience members...until afterwards, when everyone was giggling but me.  Don't let this happen to you!  It is very important (I can't stress this enough!) that you wear appropriate underpinnings! Nothing ruins a performance faster than catching a glimpse of a dancers saggy old underwear.   Consider what you are wearing underneath you skirt to be just as important as the skirt itself, and choose tap pants, a bathing suit bottom, or dye a good quality pair of full-coverage underwear in a matching color.  Never wear a thong under your costume...yuck!

See Thru Fabrics

There are a lot of beautiful fabrics to choose from, and some of the nicest, floaty-est ones just happen to be sheer or semi-sheer.  These are fine and beautiful, but keep modesty in mind!  Speaking as your teacher, it's my opinion that if you make your costume skirt out of see-thru fabric, wearing harem pants underneath is a must.  If necessary, you can make your harem pants out of the same sheer fabric as your skirt, and all the layers combined should mask the naked look of bare legs.  I have seen some costumes that look just beautiful with several layers of sheer skirt over bare legs, and others that look downright indecent with a single layer and slit to the top.  Just remember that in this case, more (as in fabric, not skin!) is definitely better.

Lingerie

Lingerie fantasy costumes are not appropriate  costume wear for Oriental dance.  Not only do they look cheep and tacky, but they are cheaply made and likely to fall apart when you least expect it.


 
     

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